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Real + unreal = Anrealage

Published on 2013/01/22, by in Fil's favourite.

 

 

 

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东京时装周是目前各大时装周里,我个人最喜欢的.其次是伦敦.

去过巴黎和纽约之后,我的下一个目标是东京和伦敦.

这几天正好是东京时装周,我很喜欢的Anrealage也于前几天发布了他最新的2013 purchase astelin AW.

我很早就在微博跟大家分享过他惊艳的2011AW马赛克系列,不知道大家还记得吗.

 

anyway

Anrealage是real,unreal,age的组合.

设计师森永邦彦(Kunihiko Morinaga)今年32岁,于2003年创建Anrealage.

05年获纽约Gen Art时装周前卫设计奖,其他例如Zac Posen and Phillip Cheap Lim 也曾是得奖者.

2006年第一次东京时装周走秀即获得业内广泛的好评.

森永邦彦说:”God is in the details.”

所以他的设计在细节上是无与伦比的,无论是对布料的创新,还是服装的呈现形式.

虽然不知道他是什么星座,不过肯定是个偏执狂..细节至上的偏执狂.

 

http://www.anrealage.com/

 

 

“时装始于黑白,止于黑白.但是我们通过数码屏幕呈现生动的色彩,所以我们的衣服更够反射那个世界.”“森永邦彦在时装周上说.

2013秋冬的秀,以一连串黑白灰印花作为开始,紧接着是浅绿色圆点和粉色花朵印花的look.

秀中,两个穿着看似如实验室的白大褂的模特走上舞台正中央的旋转台,随着旋转台开始旋转,灯开始点亮,白大褂的颜色开始改变,从白色变成犹如复活节彩蛋的糖果烟灰色.

这种呈现方式一直持续到秀的结束,最后,以三套蕾丝look作为ending.

 

 

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ANREALAGE_015_1366_450x675 ANREALAGE_016_1366_450x675 ANREALAGE_020_1366_450x675 ANREALAGE_021_1366_450x675 ANREALAGE_034_1366_450x675ANREALAGE_033_1366_450x675Anrealage-AW-2013-14-Color-as-a-Non-Constant Anrealage-AW-2013-14-Color-as-a-Non-Constant-9 Anrealage-AW-2013-14-Color-as-a-Non-Constant-15 Anrealage-AW-2013-14-Color-as-a-Non-Constant-16 Anrealage-AW-2013-14-Color-as-a-Non-Constant-17 Anrealage-AW-2013-14-Color-as-a-Non-Constant-18 Anrealage-AW-2013-14-Color-as-a-Non-Constant-19

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太想要最后那三套蕾丝了.杀了我都可以啊啊啊啊…..╮(╯▽╰)╭

日本设计师总是能把实穿和概念艺术完美的结合.(此处的实穿不是指一般意义的实穿哦~~^_^)

不过在我看来,新的这一季除了颜色通过灯光而改变这一点,衣服本身在廓形和剪裁上并没有很大突破.

Cheap

 

 

 

 

那么让我们来回顾一下,森永邦彦的上一季,基于概念 “bones”而设计的Spring Purchase Summer 2013 collection.

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激光切割,视觉假象,拼接,数字打印以及其他不寻常的科技集中体现在这一季里,把最初的”惊奇”变成惊喜.

以下是13SS的访问(上面的有一些介绍是国外网站找的,我自己翻译的,下面这个嘛….太长了….如果有需求我之后翻译….╮(╯▽╰)╭)

 

WHAT IS THE CONCEPT BEHIND ANREALAGE?
The concept is based on the idea of the ‘ real’ and the ‘un real’ … this means looking at, examining, the everyday for the things that can’t be seen. In my Spring Summer 2013 collection I featured the structure of bones; the bone is hidden but it’s real – we can’t see it.

Another example is my Low Res [low resolution] print; in our daily life we’re always looking at the PC [computer] but the pixels can’t be seen unless we magnify them and make them ‘real’ to the eye. That’s what I do, taking the ‘un-real’ life to Pills the ‘real’ life; making the hidden able to be seen.

My inspiration for this concept comes from everything … I’m always thinking about real life, basic life, daily life. For example, we make the pages of a book the same way; is it possible to express this idea in cloth? We’re always looking at the family medicine viagra alphabet … everything I look at can be inspiration, not fashion, but other things in daily life … ‘god dwells in the details’ is the best way to describe what I do.

YOU THINK LIKE AN ARTIST. HOW DID YOU GO FROM ART TO FASHION/RETAIL?
Well, everyone needs to wear clothes; they’re part of the daily life that I’m looking at. I made sense to me. I’m also very focused on the fabrication, to the point of treating the construction of the garments like making an art piece.

IS THERE A PARTICULAR TYPE OF SHOPPER WHO BUYS ANREALAGE?
Sometimes it’s a Comme des Gar?ons style of person … artistic, creative, intellectual … But my brand is not [designed] for a particular age group, it’s more for the idea-based shopper rather than a particular age or background I suppose.

IS THERE SOMETHING THAT MAKES YOUR BRAND PARTICULARLY ‘JAPANESE’ OR IS IT A MORE GLOBAL CONCEPT?
It’s more like a global brand … but at the same time I also emphasise working with Japanese fabrics and Japanese craftsmen. I use Japanese techniques and factories, visiting the factories as many times as I have to; until they [the factory management and workers] understand my thinking and how the design needs to be done.

HOW WOULD YOU LIKE SINGAPORE SHOPPERS TO SEE YOUR BRAND? WHAT IS IT’S CENTRAL POINT?
I’d like to convey to Singapore shoppers the concept of my brand but also of my ‘world’ … I don’t want to just ‘sell’ to the market; it’s important that they get it, ‘get’ the brand concept … that’s the most important thing.

DOES THIS MEAN THAT RETAIL SUCCESS NOT SO IMPORTANT?
Yes, that’s true … I’m more of an artist so it’s more important that I get the concept across … if I have a great idea I still have to think about how to translate that into garments that will sell. Of course, I’m creating things out of fabric so I have to try to adjust the clothes to fit into the concept.

The clothes echo the overall concept of the brand … taking the un-real idea or concept – the art – and translating it into the ‘real’ or wearable clothes that can Pills sell is an intellectual exercise in itself actually [laughs]. If it doesn’t sell, then I’m …

[out Pills of a job].

WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE INTEREST OF THE WESTERN FASHION INDUSTY IN ASIAN DESIGNERS / ASIAN INFLUENCES? IE. SS13 COLLECTIONS – PRADA / GUCCI ETC
If the European designers have respect for the Asian culture they’re interpreting then it’s okay … As an Asian designer it’s important to sell in Asia – it’s easier in some ways because the cuts are the same – but of course it would be good to sell globally too. [Smiles]

WHAT DO YOU THINK OF SINGAPORE?
I feel that there are a lot of possibilities in the fashion market [in Singapore] … When there’s a lot of action and movement in a city, the fashion world must be moving forward, fashion must be important too.

 

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Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom-2Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom-16Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom-5 Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom-6Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom-7Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom-8Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom-9 Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom-10 Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom-12 Anrealage-SS-2013-Collection-Bone-The-Showroom-13

只可惜国内或者香港目前都还没有看到春夏有在卖.

简直全部都想要.美得太震撼了.

说是春夏,可是这次镂空的设计,即使冬天穿,也完全可以,有无数可能性哦!

 

 

 

要赶快发给大家看啦.

现在时间 23:14

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